When Ingrid and I were planning this Japan trip, we decided to visit stationery stores more than food spots and famous sites, as we had already explored many of those on previous trips to Japan.
Japan is known for its technology—the Shinkansen, Walkman, robots, and more—but less so for its paper products. As a pen and paper enthusiast, I can say they have some of the best stationery products in the world, if not the best.
Their papers are smooth and hold ink well, even if the paper is thin, preventing liquid from penetrating through. I even use some of their notebooks for watercolor painting. Their fountain pens are also excellent; the higher-end ones are crafted by masters, making it feel like holding a work of art in your hand.
The challenge in visiting different stores wasn’t the distance but the self-control needed to avoid buying everything I liked. Somehow, I was successful in keeping my wallet in my pocket most of the time.
The first stationery store we visited was Itoya in Ginza, just a few minutes’ walk or 2-3 blocks from our hotel. We didn’t rush to the store; we had plenty of time. We enjoyed the stores along the way, including a camera store, the Nissan showroom, and the window displays at Mitsukoshi.
The first thing you notice as you approach Itoya is the paperclip logo and the brand name. As soon as you enter, you’re greeted by a variety of items—pens, papers, notebooks, fans, bags, and more. But we were there for the fountain pens, which are on the third floor.
A narrow escalator led us to the third floor, where a low display showcased expensive fountain pens from brands like Pelikan, Namiki, Platinum, Parker, and Waterman. Around the display were a few people browsing, testing, and dreaming of owning a ¥400k fountain pen. There were also fountain pen inks from various brands.
Ingrid and I were a bit sad because the store carried fewer Namiki Nippon Art pens compared to my last visit in 2017 when I bought my Namiki. I heard from a Singaporean seller that the company will stop producing that model.
One particular customer caught my eye—a young Japanese mom with a baby, less than a year old, strapped to her chest. The mother was drooping while testing a pen, and the baby, with his head almost touching the display glass, looked at me innocently, not knowing what was happening.
We spent a few minutes looking through the pens, checking for anything we wanted. Luckily, nothing called my name, so my wallet was safe.
Traveler’s Factory is another brand worth mentioning. We visited two branches on different days, one in Marunouchi and one in Nakameguro.
Google showed us that Traveler’s Factory has a branch in Tokyo Station in Marunouchi, so we headed there. However, we felt a bit helpless because the shop’s address was in Japanese. Instead of translating it, we went to the information desk.
A nice lady who spoke and understood English directed us to the basement of Tokyo Station. The station itself is worth visiting for its Victorian architecture and numerous shops. One interesting sight outside the building was a shoeshine man with waiting patrons—a rare sight in Manila.
We left the building, walked a few steps, and reached the basement stairs. There were plenty of people and shops, but we remembered the directions. The shop is just a few meters from the bottom of the stairs to the left.
The shop isn’t big, maybe just 20 square meters, but it’s full of travel-related items—notebooks, refills, pens, cameras, stamps, and stamping stations.
We browsed, checked out nice items, and absorbed the shop’s atmosphere, inhaling the smell of leather and observing like-minded people. Ingrid and I were just happy to be there, experiencing the products, trying out the stamps, and enjoying the travel-vibe environment.
The other shop we visited the day after the Tokyo Station branch is located in Nakameguro, just 30 minutes from Higashi-Ginza Station. The shop is only a 5-minute walk from Nakameguro Station.
I liked this branch because it is located in a residential neighborhood, away from the busy city and numerous people. It had a more relaxed atmosphere with no rush, allowing us to find our zen moment.
When we got there, we had to line up and wait for a few minutes because the small store, slightly bigger than the Tokyo Station branch, was at full capacity. Only 10 people could fit in the store at any given time.
Those who left the store looked happy and excited to open their bags, eager to start writing in their new journals.
Like the other branch, this store was full of travel items, but it had a higher ceiling to showcase a few more items that the other shop didn’t carry, such as different pouch models, Swiss knife covers, and refreshments.
There were many nice items in that store—little trinkets costing only a few hundred pesos—but if you mindlessly put whatever you want in your basket, the total will amount to 5 digits.
Kakimori is another store in a neighborhood area in Kuramae, about a 30-minute subway ride from Ginza. From the station, it took us another 10 minutes to reach Kakimori on a straight path. You won’t feel the 10-minute walk because there are different small artisan shops along the way, some crafting leather bags and others showcasing independent fashion labels.
The Kakimori store is spacious and well-lit, with stationeries from their own brand and others lining the walls. But the most distinct feature of their store is that you can create your own notebooks. A side wall is dedicated to covers and papers for you to choose from. You then bring the items to the huge middle isle with big machines and around 3-4 people to assemble the notebook. At the end of the store is a workshop space, and on the second floor is a studio where you can customize your ink color by appointment.
The last store worth mentioning is Sailor Ancora in Ginza. Like Kakimori, you can customize items here, but instead of notebooks, you create your own pen.
Sailor Ancora can be found alongside high-end shops in Ginza, but the price of the customized pens won’t burn a hole in your wallet unless you choose a more expensive model. My pen only cost me less than 2000 pesos.
If you are indecisive, I caution you because there are at least five colors to choose from for each pen part, from nib to butt. You might end up buying more than one or spend at least 2 hours or more choosing.
We visited many other stores, like Tag Stationery in Asakusa, Loft Shibuya, Starbucks Reserve (which sells Traveler’s Notebooks), Maruzen, and other small independent stationery stores in different areas. However, the ones mentioned above are worth visiting for their variety, novelty, experience, and inventory size.
Japan is big on stationery, not just high-tech items. Even today, the Japanese still use Hanko or personal stamps for formal contracts and banking. Although the Japanese government has limited the use of the stamp, it will take time before stationery goes out of fashion in Japan. The next time you visit Japan, drop by a stationery store, get yourself a nice pen and paper, and experience the joy of putting your thoughts into words using works of art.
For Ingrid and I, eight days of exploring Tokyo’s stationery stores were never enough. But we are grateful that we were able to experience and see great craftsmanship in a world of mass-produced items.
Panorama 